Here's the continuation of reliving my trip to Europe in April, 2000. I recently found my journals and I've scanned some photos (and borrowed some from the internet - if I had done this much research before I left, I would probably have better stories to tell now). The journals have been tidied up, with a few pertinent observations from today. Enjoy! :)
April 30, 2000: On to Brussels. I decided to skip breakfast, in preparation for yet another train trip. The train was quite nice, though the train station wasn't as lovely as Amsterdam's. The trip was quiet, with lovely scenery, and lasted about two and a half hours. GFFMO again spent most of his time engaged with the d*mn guidebook and not me. But...not a hardship, I have to admit. There's something very soothing about daydreaming while looking at beautiful European scenery from a train.
GFFMO was set on eating at a specific restaurant in the main square - one that was
recommended by the d*mn guidebook [I'm sure you see a theme here.]. The train station was quite close to the main square, so we walked. But - oh.my.god. The square, or the Grand Place, was GORGEOUS! Stunningly beautiful 15th century buildings as far as you can see! I would've rather wandered around the square to soak in the lovely surroundings, but GFFMO was intent on eating. Unfortunately, I was a sheep and joined him.
This restaurant served bread to the table without charging a service fee, which was great. I just had some of the bread and a delicious iced coffee [which, if I think about it, may have been my first iced coffee!] After we finished, we decided to walk around Brussels for a bit, before our train to Bruges. A shop in the Grand Place, Galler Chocolates, had some delectable looking treats, and also a reasonable international shipping fee, so I decided to get some and send them home to my dad. I also got a couple for myself - I had never seen an Earl Grey tea chocolate confection before! 
We also had to make sure to get a look at the Mannequin Pis, or the little peeing boy statue. Unfortunately, the statue wasn't wearing one of his 700 costumes. But it was fun to get a look nonetheless. We also wandered over to a stunning indoor shopping area - it looked like a palace! Of course, since it was the day after Queen's Day, nothing was open, except for a record store, where we perused the racks and GFFMO indulged his love of Eurotrash music.
Back to the train station to head to Bruges. The ride was very quick, a tad under an hour, and we arrived. I would've liked to take a cab to the hotel, since dragging the suitcase was getting old, but we walked instead. It was a bit of a hike, but at least it was a lovely hike. :) 
The hotel was also quite lovely, and almost like a B & B in its size and atmosphere. It was the Hotel Cordoneanier, and it was right by the main square, which was very convenient. [the picture at right is the street the hotel was on] After checking in, we decided to explore the town. And, yes, find a cafe that was recommended by the d*mn guidebook. It was adorable, with some locals, for once. I got some vegetable soup and some bread topped with amazing local cheese. GFFMO got snails. Blech. The cafe was very inexpensive and pleasant, which was a soothing change of pace. After dinner, we went to an ice-cream place recommended by you-know-who. I tried a little bit of ice cream, but it was extremely rich and a little heavy for my two-trains-today tummy. So, although GFFMO now wanted to head to a recommended beer hall, I decided to go back to the hotel for a pit stop. I told GFFMO I would meet him at the beer hall.
Admittedly, I did get a little lost and it took me longer than expected to make it to the beer hall, but I in no way expected the tongue-lashing I received when I got there. Apparently, I was ruining my travel companion's trip. Who knew?! I just sat there, dumbfounded, as he railed against my motion sickness issues, my dietary concerns, and my general unpleasantness as a travel companion. Hmmmm. Then he had the nerve to tell me that the worst part was that he had planned the perfect European experience for me and now it was being ruined. That was enough. I told him to stop talking, my experience was my experience, and though I appreciated all of his planning, there was no way to predict how things would shake down. He should have his own perfect European experience and leave me to my own devices. So...we agreed to disagree, but he got one last complaint in about how unfun it was for him to eat when I wasn't. Well, that's not my problem, bub. And...scene. SO glad there was close to a week left on this funfest! In all my dreams about my first trip to Europe, being yelled at in a beer hall in Bruges was not on my to do list, but at least the hostility was out in the open.
May 1, 2000: Oh, gee, another holiday. May Day is another day for shops to close - such great planning on someone's part. Anyway, he left the hotel early to climb the belfry and have his perfect experience [I know, sarcasm much?] I left the hotel a little later and just wandered around Bruges by myself. And it was glorious. It was a perfectly lovely walk through a gorgeous town. It took a while to find a store that was open, but I finally found a store that sold Flemish lace. I bought a piece for my mom and a tablecloth for my sister, because the exchange rate was extraordinarily good! I should've gotten some lace for myself, but I was a dope and didn't. 
Later, I met GFFMO at the Church of Our Lady, a 16th century church that housed a Michelangelo, "Madonna and Child." It also housed the tombs of Mary of Burgundy and Charles the Bold, alongside some Masonic paraphernalia and a chalice holding the blood of Christ. All in one church! It was stunning and I was very disappointed I couldn't take any photos inside, since my dad would've loved to have seen the Masonic stuff, though I did sneak this blurry photo of the Michelangelo. 
After the church, we went to City Hall, another glorious building, this one dating from 1376. It had amazing models and layouts of Bruges, along with the history of their city and its government. Very interesting, especially seeing how the city hasn't changed all that much in over 600 years. Next, I needed a liedown, so I went back to the hotel while GFFMO went on a tour of a brewery. I think my nap was the right thing to do. :)
Refreshed by my nap, I wandered through townuntil it was time to meet GFFMO at Bruge's Beguinhof. This one was bigger and more touristy than the one we saw in Amsterdam, but it was still beautiful and peaceful. Plus, it had a museum and a house open for viewing. It was fascinating to go through the house and imagine living there.
We toured a couple of museums,
the Groeningemuseum and the Memlingmuseum, which housed more Flemish art than I'd ever seen before [or since]. The buildings were both spectacular, dating from the 12th century, and the art was beautifully displayed. The Van Eycks and the Memlings were especially lovely to me. Then, to get another perspective on the town, we walked over to the outskirts of Bruges to see the windmills and the countryside. WOW. This was amazing. The houses had stunning stained glass windows and spectacular woodworking details. GFFMO and I had a truce and started kidding about stopping at a realtor's office to see how much the houses cost. Truly, a beautiful beautiful spot.
One last dinner recommended by the d*mn guidebook: pancakes. Actually, pancakes are always a good idea, so they were fine. After pancakes, someone went out for some nightlife and someone went to sleep. I'm sure you can guess who did what.
In closing, Bruges was spectacular - almost like a dream city. Or like a storybook version of a European town. It was clean, beautiful, enchanting and filled with warm-hearted generous people. I dream of going back and experiencing it without a crabby cloud over my head. Someday, I will. Enjoy some more photos I took whilst walking around Brussels and Bruges. You'll notice that my love of doorways, which I later indulged in Italy, seems to have started to take root in Bruges...
Next up - Paris.
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